Once all four nuts are loose, you can turn the column 360 degrees. I've used this feature many times as well and it works great. The number scale below is for reference, giving you an idea what angle the column is at. And this doesn't have to be right at zero to work on something because once you've indicated in your work piece, you're good to go regardless of what this says.
 

This is the power feed for the X axis. Now this didn't work when I brought the mill home but after taking it apart, replacing a few parts, it works great now. The lever with the black knob; you move it in the direction you want the table to feed in. And the black dial below it is a variable speed control for the feed rate.

Now it depends what I'm working on to determine if I'd use the power feed or not. And if I'm not using it, I would just move the round handle by hand to move the table. However, the power feed really shines when you have a large work piece or multiple parts that you're cutting.

The dial between the power feed and round handle has one thousandths increments that go from zero to 200 thousandths. You can reset this dial to zero by loosening the round knurled nut that is next to it. And the same goes for the Y axis.

I use this feature all the time, even if I'm using my digital readout because this dial doesn't depend on electricity. Five full turns equals one inch of travel.
 

Here is my digital readout or DRO for short. This makes using a machine like this a 'game changer' because of what this unit is capable of. Now most of the time I use it for telling me where my X or Y axis is at, but it does so much more. And to save power, it goes to sleep if you don't move either axis for 20 minutes.

Now if you've been to my website before, then you might remember seeing a cheat-sheet near this or attached to my collet rack below it. This sheet would have coordinates on it for the X and Y axis, helping me go from one location to the next. These digital readouts aren't cheap, but they sure do work good.

If you needed to drill some holes in a square, rectangle, triangle or circle pattern, all you do is input a few parameters and this unit will tell you where each location needs to be. Then all you do is dial to each position and drill your holes.

This DRO also has a password protected area that you can adjust some parameters depending on different factors. And I've used this when I first set it up because I wanted to make sure that when I moved the X axis a certain amount, that it actually moved that amount. I could go on and on about what this digital readout can do but just know that I'm very happy with it and I wouldn't be able to machine some of the things I make with out it.

This unit distributes lubricating oil, or 'way oil' throughout the machine by pushing down on that handle. You can see the oil line to the left of the reservoir that feeds a manifold, which then feeds the machine. Now this oil is special and is somewhat thick, and sticky. The reason for this is so it will stay where it's applied, which is on the slide-ways for the X, Y and Z axis. And some of these surfaces that get oiled are upside-down, which is why the oil is sticky....so it stays put.

Note: This oil would not work in a car engine because of how sticky it is. Something tells me that it would end up becoming one big blob of oil going around in place of going through all the oil galleys. And way-lube like this comes in different viscosities, just like most oils do.

All you do is give that handle two or three pumps and you're good for a day or two, depending on how much you're using the machine.
 

The base of the machine is lower in the center than the edges. This is so all the way oil (or cutting coolant) has a place to end up before going onto the floor. And this is the reason I put sawdust here, so it soaks up all that oil. Once all the sawdust is wet, I remove it and replace it with dry stuff.
 

This fan is to help cool the gears and pulleys inside the head of the machine. However, this didn't work either so again I removed it, rewired it and got it working again. This fan makes a huge difference now that it works again.
 

Last but not least is compressed air. If you look close, you'll notice a regulator before the air lines are split between the lathe and milling machine. This regulator is set at 40 pounds so not to blow chips across the garage.
 

My milling machine runs on 220 volts, 3 phase power, but my house only has 220 volt single phase power. One way to remedy that is to use a 'phase converter' which generates the third leg of power needed to run machinery. I bought this system and installed it myself, doing everything to code.
 

There are different types of phase converts and mine is a "Rotary Phase Converter", which means it has a generator. This generator is the "rotary part", and produces the third leg of power.

Phase converters come in all different sizes (power requirements), depending on what you're trying to run. Mine is good for a 2 to 5 horsepower motor and it works great. However, it's a little noisy because that generator has to run. The good news is, once you start the milling machine you don't really hear it that much anymore.
 

Now my lathe runs on 220 volt single phase power, so I don't need the phase converter for it. However, with the 220 single phase power already in the cabinet, I used this for the lathe. To get 220 single phase power you just need to run two 110 volt lines, and a ground.

I also ran a 110 volts below the cabinet to use for my milling machine. These plugs are used for my DRO and power feed. And a lot of times I am using them both at the same time.
 

I made this bracket to hold the generator. It's bolted together (no welds) so I could take it apart if I need to. And the generator is rubber mounted so it doesn't rattle.

Well that pretty much does it for my lathe and milling machine for now. I hope you liked it and maybe you learned a little about each machine in the process. So far I've been having fun with both of them and love being out in the garage working on my next project.