Here you can see where I marked the
block next to the rod bolt so I would know where to grind. There's a lot
of material that has to come out to make clearance for that long stroke.
Now all we do is rotate the crank a little to make room for the grinder,
put a rag on the rod and crank and then grind and check.
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On the last page we talked about how
thick the oil pan rails were and here is why that's a good thing. To
have the larger stroke crankshaft work, a minimum of .060" between
the rod bolt and block is the rule so that's what I made them.
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This isn't the best shot but you can
see that the bolt clears the block now. That new slot is about
.100" deep (close to an 1/8"). This had to be done on every
rod and also keeping track of them 1 through 8 in there respective
bores. As I bolted them up, I marked them with a Dremel on the rod and
rod cap. By using a small mounted wheel, it made the marking job easy
and permanent.
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This is what the ground looked like
after I got done with all the grinding. What a mess. Now that were finished grinding, let's take a look
at more of the parts that go into it!
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