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On the drivers side of the transmission there is a spot for using a
mechanical speedometer setup. I have an electric speedometer so I'll be
using wires in place of a cable. Now Hurst asks you which one you'll be
using when you order everything and if you use an electrical speedometer
they send you a kit for it. Either way you'll have to remove the rubber
shipping plug and in my case capping it off.
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This is the kit they send you for capping off the
speedometer drive hole. The plastic piece has a rubber O-ring that keeps
any fluid from leaking out.
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I put a small amount of GM Synchromesh trans fluid on the O-ring before
inserting it so the rubber wouldn't get damaged. I hope it doesn't leak
because there was no mention of anything like oil for the rubber or
sealant of any kind for a leak free installation.
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I cut away the supper thick shipping box and placed the trans on my
dolly so I could roll it around when not working with it. This sure does
make it easy to move now. Speaking of moving the trans around, I needed
something to keep it upright while it was sitting on my floor jack
because the bottom of the case is a lot more round than flat. I won't be
able to lift the trans by myself so I'll need some help.
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Here is the help I'll be using. The same piece of steel plate that
helped me take out the old trans got a couple of things adO/C
Mhz. - something for everyone!ded to it to
aid in putting in the new one. After looking and measuring a few places
on the bottom of the trans, this is what I came up with to hold it. I
made the pieces out of aluminum with the front being V shaped and a flat
one in the back that rests on the trans mount area. There is a four inch
height difference between the front and rear pieces which should be the
right amount to have the trans sit level....if I measured correctly.
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The front block sits between some casting ribs with one side being
slightly smaller than the other. The reason one side is smaller is
because the casting ribs are different sizes and not straight across
from one another. The block width is 3/4" with the smaller side being
1/2". And that notch in the middle is to clear a rib running down the
center of the trans.
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