New Transmission  34                 March  2012

The mating part that I'm referring to is on the left. This part will go inside the brake master cylinder piston (which is slightly larger than the new part) and has a spherical radius at the bottom of it. I made the new part from stainless steel (to match the other) and the rounded end is slightly smaller than the hole in the piston which has a full radius on the end to match the master cylinder. The reason I made it in two pieces is because if you remember my old one was drilled all the way through and I needed something solid on one end. What I did was drill and tap these two for 3/8-24 threads and will screw them together making them like one piece. I could have made a new one-piece unit but that would require me to drill it like I did the old one which wasn't easy the first time around. I guess you could say I took the easy way out here but it should work as if it were one piece.....with less work. To join them together I cut a bolt in two and will use the threaded part only.
 

 

 

Here you can see both masters bolted in place along with the pushrods too. In this shot it looks like there are only one bolt each holding them in place but that's not the case. I actually have more than enough but you can't seem them all here. I'll also use lock-nuts on all the bolts once I'm through.
 

 

 

The clutch master pushrod is made out of same stainless steel like the brakes are but it's about half the length. I didn't need a spacer after all on the brake side as it seems to be right where it needs to be but I did need to make one for the clutch side. It's made from the same stainless bar stock as the pushrods and is .450" long. Also notice the wrench flat on the clutch pushrod so I can tighten the jam-nut that goes to the rod-end. I didn't need to do this on the brake side because it already had one from years ago.
 

 

 

This is the clutch that you're looking at but check out how close that bolt is from the chassis. More clearance is gained as the pedal is pushed in because the chassis tapers away from it. I also used a thin lock-nut here to get as much clearance as I could. I may sand one thread from this bolt when I take it apart to do some painting later just to make sure nothing rubs.

I'm almost done with the master cylinders and only a couple of things remain now. One thing I still need to do is make some hard lines and then bleed the system to see if it all works. The other is on the opposite end of the pedal which are the pads that you push on with your feet. I'm not sure what I'm going to do there yet but I'll be thinking about it along the way.
 

 

 

My driveshaft came in a couple of weeks ago and it looks great. If you remember, I upgraded from steel to an aluminum one. This is 3 1/2" diameter and has 1350 style U-joints (like my old one had) which are very strong. It's made by Inland Empire Driveline which just happens to be the same company that I used for my original one. Hurst Driveline has some good venders.
 

 

 

Here is what the new driveshaft looks like and if I didn't know better I'd say it was my old one. The chips in the paint near those holes are where my old cross member was located.
 

 

 

Speaking of cross members, here is the new one that I made that is now holding up my transmission. All those other holes are from previous cross members and if I ever decide to switch transmissions again, I'm sure I'll be able to find a set of holes that would work for it.
 

 

 

As I was cleaning up the garage, I came across all these pieces that I bought from Total Coast Involved that I didn't use. All I could do was shake my head and see dollar signs floating away because I paid good money for all these. The parts I did use were the two pedals (which I cut in half and modified) and the threaded bung that goes to the pedals (which I milled an angle on). If I knew all this ahead of time, I would've never called them and just made everything myself.

I should be getting my stainless steel tubing soon which means I'll be able to start making some hard lines and I'll be working on what I'm going to do about pedal pads too. Maybe next week will be a little more productive so keep in touch and find out.
 

 

1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13  14  15  16  17  18  19  20  21  22  23  24  25  26  27  28 

29  30  31  32  33  34  35  36  37  38  39  40  41  42  43  44  45  46  47  48  49  50  51  52  53

54  55  56  57  58  59  60  61  62  63